The N Train Ends At Coney Island

Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, 1985. Madonna had teenage girls teasing their hair and losing their virginity, break dancing and the hip-hop culture was exploding on the streets, and the train station I lived across the street from went straight to Coney Island

Most people are surprised when I tell them Im from Brooklyn. I assume its because I dont carry the definitive Noo Yawk accent most Big Apple natives have. As far as the Now York attitude, a minor amount remained with me and Im glad. You can take the girl out of Brooklyn but you cant take Brooklyn out of the girl. My slang-influenced talk disappeared when I moved away, but when Im around my family it always resurfaces without me even noticing.

Italian-American families mainly occupied this moderate-sized region at the time, with Orthodox Jewish and Asian families on the outskirts of the neighborhood. I lived in a 10-story apartment building that towered over the neighborhood. The rest of the area consisted of moderate concrete block homes and brick townhouses. However, the heart of Bensonhurst mainly consisted of Italian families. The stereotypes of plastic furniture and spaghetti on Sunday were on the money. Everyone had a cousin named Toni and an Uncle Vinny, and they all hung out at the OTB (Off Track Betting) pissing money away on the horse races.

Pizzerias and bakeries were on every other corner, and social clubs that nobody seemed to notice were blended throughout the community. It was apparent even as a child that these establishments were meeting places for the big shots in the neighborhood. Families that had very strong influence and say about what went on in the community.

Looking back, it amazes me that a neighborhood could be so tight knit and involved with one another. Once I was old enough to explore the Five Boroughs, I realized how small my neighborhood was. I also realized that other cultures were not welcome there. A non-Italian walking around Bensonhurst was fairly unheard of. The racial slurs and jokes were an everyday occurrence, and I never comprehended why these people disliked other races. I also never fell into that narrow-minded way of thinking that dominated the neighborhood.

When I was seventeen, a black youth called Yusef Hawkins came into the neighborhood looking to buy a used car. He was met by approximately 30 white males with bats and one with a gun. They thought he was going to attend a party of a local ( Italian ) girl and they were furious. The teen was shot and killed. In 1991, political activist Reverend Al Sharpton marched the streets, outraged at the murder; he was then stabbed behind a schoolyard. Racism was not a secret in this neighborhood, but this incident showed just how vicious it really was. I was ashamed to live there, and could not understand the hatred that was all around me.

I had no idea the impact my geographical location would bear on me. The largest event in Bensonhurst each year was the 65th Street Feast. Every summer, this block party was held to honor the Catholic Madonna. A 10-block section was blocked of in the heart of the neighborhood, and everyone attended. Gambling, fried dough, rides, sausage sandwiches, and a whole lot of liquor were major elements of this celebration. Doesnt sound very religious, does it? Anyway, I always had a blast. The feasts lasted a few days and on the last night, a large Madonna icon is marched down the street for people to pin money upon.

Across the street from my building was the 20th Avenue train station. This station was my gateway to another world. The N train went in two directions, one ending at Coney Island and the other in Manhattan. My frequent trips on the train always promised many unique encounters. For instance, one time when I was about 16, I was waiting for the train to head back to my side of town and this tall, largely built, greasy-haired he-man was standing by me. I took out a cigarette and he screamed at me, GIVE ME A CIGAERTTE! Not a soul was around of course, and I was freaked. So I calmly said OK, and handed him one. So then he said, GIVE ME A LIGHT! So I handed him my lighter. At that point, I was frozen in my spot. He handed me the lighter along with a dime and said, TAKE THIS DIME! So I took the dime and said, OK, thanks. Satisfied, he walked away and left the station. A typical day on the subway in NYC. Ive seen everything from hookers and the homeless to power brokers and the Guardian Angels. Ah, the thrill of rush hour and late-night train travel.

Coney Island, or Stilwell Avenue, which is its proper name, is the end of the line for the N Train. Id hop the train with my cousin Joey and spend all day by the sea. What was once home to the grandest amusement park of all time in its day, Coney Island was a shadow of its former self. A lot of rides were dismantled; vandalism and crime took its toll as well. Regardless, it was still my favorite adolescent hang out. Riding the infamous Cyclone roller coaster, built in 1923, was a must on each visit. Another great ride was the Wonder Wheel. This monstrous dinosaur of a Ferris wheel offered a birds-eye view of the Atlantic Ocean. This was not your average Ferris wheel, though: The seats resembled cable cars that slid back and forth on iron bars, giving you views from all angles. The Wonder Wheel is an unforgettable ride, and a true American classic.


A trip to Coney Island would not be complete without a Nathans hot dog. You can find Nathans in malls and supermarkets across the country now, but nothing beats a Nathans hot dog straight out of Coney. Maybe its the sea air, and the fact that the dogs are being cooked just as they were a hundred years prior.

As I grew older, I ventured over to the other side of the tracks and began to explore Manhattan. One of my favorite spots in Manhattan was 42nd Street. The NYC Port Authority is located there, along with all the XXX theaters and pleasure shops. It was a plethora of eye candy for everyone to see. My cousin and I would skip school and parade through the city without a care. We would sit on the corners by the break-dancers and watch them practice. Later in the evening there would be competitions, and crowds would gather for hours watching the street gymnasts dance. Break dancing was born on those streets and became more mainstream as the pop and hip-hop music scenes became widely recognized. Michael Jacksons Moon Walk is a prime example of break dancing making its way into popular culture.

As a teen, Manhattan had so much more to offer. Greenwich Village was one of my hangouts. Washington Square Park attracted many different types of cultures and lifestyles. Punk rockers with mohawks wandered about, folk singers performed their mellow music freely, artists sketched and painted throughout the day, and spoken-word poets recited their works. Hanging out in this park and experiencing all the different lifestyles really taught me the lesson of acceptance and being open minded to anything. I needed that element in my life, considering that I lived in a neighborhood that looked down on anything that was not related to Italian culture.

Once I was old enough to hit the club scene, the first place I wanted to go was the Lime Light, an abandoned church that made for an awesome club. The stage had a stained glass backdrop, and cages above the dance floor flaunted go-go style dancing girls. The second level had various mini bars and couches where you could chill out and have a drink. The third floor was V.I.P only, which of course meant I wasnt getting up there. I frequented this club once a week and couldnt get enough. Everyone from movie stars to fetish freaks flocked to this place. Once again, I was able to be part of many different circles that were more accepting and open-minded than the ones I grew up in.

It has been 10 years since I have been back to my hometown, and Ive recently felt the urge to visit. I think that I miss the diversity the most, and the endless options of things to do and places to go. Looking back, I realize I learned a lot of valuable lessons from my experiences in that environment. These experiences helped develop my character as an adult. From dealing with the dark face of racism to watching new trends emerge into mainstream culture to simply accepting new ideas and people, these are the things that helped shape me into the person I am today. And the things that made me a lifelong lover of the city that never sleeps.

Eva Dark

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